onsdag 27 augusti 2014


Trollblocket. Det fina blocket mitt inne i urskogen. Klätterbar på alla sidor. Flera branta, barska projekt för dom starka flickorna/pojkarna och även några vertikala, "lättare" problem.

Jag klänger på ett av Trollblockets "lättare" projekt. Börjar med en tung sittstart för att sedan gå upp på kanten bredvid lilltallen eller så gör man den längre varianten, upp på kanten till höger och slutar längst upp på bullen. Till höger ett gäng hårda projekt. Till vänster ett coolt projekt under taket bla...

Jag siktar in mig på en liten, bra,  crimp för att sedan gå upp på väggen. Det går att gå ut till vänster och upp på bullen. Fint!! Sittstarten ska göras.

Det kommer mera...

söndag 24 augusti 2014

Mer från Branta Blocket

Mer från Branta Blocket.

Ett fint problem som går upp via överhänget och upp på facet. 
Superfina crimpar och en vacker toppkant.

Det kommer mera....

lördag 23 augusti 2014

Branta blocket

Det branta blocket. Ett megafint block som ligger mitt ute i skogen. Cyklade ett par kilometer med crashpaden för att komma dig. Jag hittade det för ett tag sedan när jag letade stenblock. Blocket ligger uppe på ett berg med fina omgivningar. Flera stora block i samma sektor. Har borstat upp en hel del på blocket men mycket är kvar att göra. Gjort ett par problem men godbitarna finns kvar. Branta problem som börjar antingen i kul sittstarter eller ståstarter.

Skriver på Svenska nu pga av att jag lagt in en län,  så den som vill kan översätta med Google. 
Så blir alla nöjda. 

It´s possible to translate the page in Google Translate now.

Här jobbar jag på ett av de "lättare" branta problemen. Avslut rakt upp eller upp längs areten. 
Mer mossa är nu borta på blocket.

Jag jobbar på ett av dom "lättare" problemen på den branta sidan. Närmast kameran gjorde jag ett coolt problem som går upp på den mindre branta väggen och ut tillvänster. Flera barska problem går att göra för den starke!

Blocket då jag hittade det. Det har antagligen använts som ett jakttorn nån gång. Under låg en stege som hjälper till när man ska upp och ner på blocket. Där stegen ligger har jag borstat fram ett brant problem som kommer bli såååå fint. 

Det kommer mera...

fredag 22 augusti 2014

Sniper alley and red bastards

Another selfie from when I did "Sniper Alley" some days ago. These big stones has many project that awaits FA! To climb here you should be prepared of a LOT of red ants!
They are everywhere. No mosquitos or flies but a lot of these bastards. There are more creepy crawlers in the Swedish forest these days than in the Colombian jungle.

"Sniper alley"

There will be more....

torsdag 21 augusti 2014

Leatherface + Hannah = Sant

Here some pictures from the "Leatherface/Hannah" stone. Just 30 meters from a small gravel road. The stone offers several nice problems. Some easy warm up style problems and some skin ripping hard problems. More big stones in this sector.

Here I am doing "Leatherface". A very nice arete. There is a low Sit start to but that´s much harder. Tried but failed. On the face to the left is some projects. Crimpy as hell! On the left arete goes "Leatherface + Hannah = Sant". A nice SS problem with a perfect topout.

Low start on "Leatherface". Then there are some dynamic moves to a very nice hold. But it´s sharp as hell! The stone here eats meat and skin! Like the sharpest stone in Val di Mello!
There is a project to the left.

Brushing the arete. Need a new stick and a collapsable ladder. Soooo much work to do out here. 
The brushes from Biltema are the best and I need to buy new ones all the time!

There will be more....

onsdag 20 augusti 2014

Hannah Montana and Leatherface

Yesterday I brushed some new stones that I found a while ago. Some very cool lines. The boulders are big and need a lot of work. ( Here are some of the boulders, and here...and here...). Brushed a lot and did some new problems. These boulders have a lot of nice lines and I can´t wait until I get back there. 

Compared to the west coast clean granite boulders the boulders here are covered with a lot of moss so cleaning the boulders is time consuming. Then it´s good to have a bag full of Biltema steel brushes.
Next to one of the boulders I found a Hannah Montana cap. Scary to find that in the middle of nowhere. This is prime country for Leatherface and banjo players. Close to some other boulders I saw some hunters a la "Deliverance" throwing apples for future kills. Feels safe. 

"Sniper alley" - A very nice overhanging arete. Sit start. After a while I figured out that it was important 
with a toe-hook/heel-hook combination. On the other side of the boulder is a similar problem but much harder.

Mountainbiking from the car to the boulders a couple of kilometers is hard
with a crashpad full with gear on the back. iPhone picture.

Next to one of the boulders I found this. A Hannah Montana cap. It has been there a while. 
Scary as this is in the middle of nowhere. Maybe Leatherface lives out here!? iPhone picture.

Found some new stones also. Here is one that had some nice steep lines. iPhone picture.

There will be more...

måndag 18 augusti 2014

From the archive: Chuck Norris doesn't fall - Solklinten.

Her a picture from Solklinten, Tjörn. A big boulder area on the Swedish west coast. The hard part is to find all the areas. The mountain holds a couple of hundred problems and projects. The Chuck Norris sector is one of the finest. Here Walker Kearney does the FA.
Visit Walkers blog: http://kearneyjourney.blogspot.se

Walker on the first crux of "Chuck Norris doesn't fall".

There will be more....

söndag 17 augusti 2014

Beach bouldering - east coast style.

The warm and nice summer is gone for now. Glad that we had a few weeks of nice weather and over +30°C. A real luxury here in Sweden. I visited my girlfriends summer place near Arkösund, east of Norrköping, a lot this summer. Next to her beach there are some very nice slabs just next to the water. Above them some nice vertical boulders. Have done 15+ boulders here during the last summers.
The fascinating about the east cost are all the straight trees! Just next to the water! At the west coast the trees are all dwarfed by storms, salty winds. There trees that grow next to the water only grow a few meters.
The east coast beach rock quality is firm and looks/feels like the stone at the west coast. Lots of small crimps and nice slopers. Inland, rock a la west coast granite, is not that common.

Here is one of my favorites. Nice minimalistic slab with a scary top out.

Nice slab: "Sommaren är kort".  Minimini crimps and some mean mini slopers. Very smooth topout.

There will be more...

tisdag 12 augusti 2014

East coast projects

Going to the west coast and Tjörn for a few days. Hopefully I can climb with my boulder buddies there. The weather seems bad but I will keep my fingers crossed. When I go back to the east coast I will do some more problems at the split rock and the latest stone. Anyone keen to go there let me know!  Here some more pictures from those stones.

One of my project on the big split boulder. There are several project on this stone.

One of my latest problems in this forest. Hopefully I will be able to do the face without the arete.

There will be more....

tisdag 5 augusti 2014

Steep arete and 10 kilos lighter.

I had planed to go to this boulder for some days. It´s a very nice, steep arete with a beautiful line. The stone quality is perfect. Worked on this project for a while and the FA went down today. Probably one of the best boulder problems I have ever done. It got it all: Toe hook, heel hook, pinching, crimps, slopers, jug... The problem is situated in the boulder area I am developing near Norrköping/Sweden. On this stone alone it´s possible to do 10+ problems. Next time I will do some more problems on this stone. In this sector there are several stones with some wonderful lines. 

It´s nice to be 10 kg´s lighter now. Feel the difference on these steep problems. I have lost all this weight since I moved here 3 months ago. Mainly because I work hard at my job, eat better and that I do hardcore hikes in the forest to look for boulders. 

Why do I write in English now? Well, because many has mailed me and asked if I could write in english. Not so many knows swedish but many swedes and others knows english.

Here are some selfies...

Here I work my way up on the arete. There are some good holds and the crux is to establish on the arete. The first crux is the start and then there is a dynamic crux at the top.

The start on the big edge under the roof and then establish on the arete is the first crux. Took me some tries to get the start moves.

I solved the start crux with a heel hook and toe hook on the edge. This is one of the best problems I have ever done. It will get many stars! ;)

There will be more...