tisdag 5 augusti 2014

Steep arete and 10 kilos lighter.

I had planed to go to this boulder for some days. It´s a very nice, steep arete with a beautiful line. The stone quality is perfect. Worked on this project for a while and the FA went down today. Probably one of the best boulder problems I have ever done. It got it all: Toe hook, heel hook, pinching, crimps, slopers, jug... The problem is situated in the boulder area I am developing near Norrköping/Sweden. On this stone alone it´s possible to do 10+ problems. Next time I will do some more problems on this stone. In this sector there are several stones with some wonderful lines. 

It´s nice to be 10 kg´s lighter now. Feel the difference on these steep problems. I have lost all this weight since I moved here 3 months ago. Mainly because I work hard at my job, eat better and that I do hardcore hikes in the forest to look for boulders. 

Why do I write in English now? Well, because many has mailed me and asked if I could write in english. Not so many knows swedish but many swedes and others knows english.

Here are some selfies...



Here I work my way up on the arete. There are some good holds and the crux is to establish on the arete. The first crux is the start and then there is a dynamic crux at the top.

The start on the big edge under the roof and then establish on the arete is the first crux. Took me some tries to get the start moves.

I solved the start crux with a heel hook and toe hook on the edge. This is one of the best problems I have ever done. It will get many stars! ;)

There will be more...

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